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#SuzyMFW: Gucci: What Lies Behind The Mask?

作者:Suzy Menkes 編輯:張一杰 時間:2019年2月25日
內容來源:VOGUE時尚網  圖片來源:VOGUE國際網站:英國

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Designer Alessandro Michele dresses up his geeky but wearables designs with heavy metal

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Discomforting spikes and masks played a major role in Alessandro Michele's latest show for Gucci

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After a weirder-than-ever Gucci show, with violently bright lighting, models in metal spikes at the neck or in masks – say vivid green or animalistic cat faces – designer Alessandro Michele talked about working with Karl Lagerfeld at Fendi.

Karl apparently encouraged the young apprentice designer and called him a DJ, for his short blond hair. But things have grown darker since, and not just Michele’s shoulder-length black hair.

At the Autumn 2019 Gucci show during Milan Fashion Week

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“We are all wild animals, contained by rules, and it’s difficult to stick to them with a wild side in me,” the designer said, referring perhaps to the discomforting spikes that would circle the neck above an ordinary, even geeky, women’s beige trouser suit or the male equivalent.

Knee pads were among the sporty details peppered around the collection

Armando Grillo / Gorunway.com

The clothes themselves were simple: sweaters and trousers for both sexes, some cute, short female dresses and sporty references, such as knee pads or sneakers swung in the hands like a bag.

However ‘ordinary’ the clothes may be, there was always weirdness lurking around the corner: was that little lamb on a tank top off for slaughter? Why were loose stitches petering out on jeans? What was that fetishistic headpiece planted above a python suit in green and yellow?

Michele did not seem perturbed by the uproar he had so recently created with a sweater's high-rise, mouth-covering neck, which was read by some critics as a racial slur to black persons. The designer said that he wanted to learn from the mistake and ‘do things in a different way’.

From Alessandro Michele's new collection for Gucci

Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

But nothing these days at Gucci seems so different from what we have seen before: the vaguely 1950s tailoring; a man’s floral jacket like granny’s old apron; women’s dresses shrunken to look almost doll-like. Break down all those things and the plethora of other wearable pieces, and you have the success story of Gucci today.

Masks and spikes aplenty convey Alessandro Michele's views on identity, humanity and fashion

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Michele feels the need to explain his vision, to translate the original Latin word ‘persona’ as referring to an actor’s mask, as a ‘fake reality’ covering his/her individual identity.

The designer’s code is to “exercise our freedom through a power filter that selects what we want to share about us, and what we want to conceal”. For Gucci customers across the world, there are myriad choices of desirable fashion objects to buy.

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